I’m always asked if the cost of the cream, lotion or potion reflects the quality or integrity of the product. I wish that the answer was a clear yes or no. There are several factors that determine the price point of a product. How many ingredients actually do work on the skin, is there a lot of science behind the product and what types of results does the product promise.

Active Ingredients are the ingredients that do work on the skin. The rest of the ingredients are fillers, stabilizers and preservatives. The active ingredients are usually the first ten items listed in the ingredient deck. Most companies have one to two active ingredients whereas Linage LinQ products have FIVE active ingredients in each product. This is important when you have multiple skin care concerns as opposed to one. For example: you might have brown spots, red spots and occasional break-out’s. This would be three skin concerns and warrant a stronger product with higher percentage of active ingredients. The more active ingredients in a product would mean a higher price tag on the lotion, potion or cream. 

Science often dictates the price point of a product. There are certain essential oils, mud’s and clays that have to be harvested at a certain  time of day, at a specific elevation, depth in the sea or during a particular season. There are other ingredients that need to be grown or manufactured in a laboratory. Then there is the question of molecular structure. How big or small does the particle need to be to get to it’s destination in the skin. Eye creams are always a bit more costly because the molecular needs to be smaller to penetrate into the delicate eye skin.

Results are equally as important. If the less expensive stuff works for you then you are fortunate. There are some key steps necessary for your home care routine, like anti-oxidants, anti-aging and sun care. However, what is ultimately the most important is what you see in the mirror. Are you happy with the reflection staring back at you in the mirror? If so, your on the right track. If not, it’s time to switch up your facial routine. It is difficult to switch your routine and ensure your working to you maximum capability at home with your home routine. You should allow your dermatologist or esthetician to take on this task.

As you can tell the cost does and does not affect the results of your skincare products. It’s important to work with a professional to guide you in the right direction for products that work well with your skin, love your results when you look in the mirror and make sure you are treating all of the aspects of anti-aging and ultimate skin health.

Let’s start with the basics. A callus (tyloma) is an area of skin that thickens after exposure to repetitive forces in order to protect the skin.  A callus is usually not painful, however if it becomes painful seek medical help. A callus usually occurs on the feet, hands or anywhere there is constant friction.  When a callus develops a mass of dead cells in its center, it becomes a corn (heloma).  We usually see corns on the toes and balls of the feet.

The callus itself may go away on it’s own. This will happen when the constant friction has been removed. Weather it be different shoes, new work out gloves, etc. The callus may be dissolved with solutions containing salicylic acid, lactic acid , sanded down with pumiceor filed down with a callus shaver, or pared (the outer skin is cut off) down by a medical professional.

Let’s talk treatment.  Lactic Acid or Salicylic Acid is used topically in various concentrations as a treatment. The Acid preparations are sold in OTC (over the counter) and by Rx (prescription). These two versions of treatment are painless. Tye acid can come saturated on a pad, in a liquid or gel form. Our office recommends leaving the acid filled pad on for 48 hours, then cleaning and applying a new pad for 48 hours, etc. Caution: Only apply the solution to the callus or corn itself. If the acid is applied to healthy skin, it might burn the areas applied or cause unnecessary irritation.

If the above treatment seems to complicated or detail oriented, you might want to try Dr. Lin’s trick.  Dr. Lin recommends using the Linage Skin Renewing Microdermabrasion Scrub nightly. Scoop out a small amount into the palm of your hand and begin to scrub the affected area with moderate friction. Rinse off the pumice granules and apply the Linage Body Moisturizer that contains 12% Lactic Acid.

Another possible scenario would be to stop the friction. If it is a particular pair of shoes or a work out you are doing, simply alter the activity so it isn’t causing constant  friction. Finally, keep the area moist by using a hydrating moisturizer.

If this fails and you want to seek medical advice you can consult a podiatrist or a dermatologist. Treatment from a physician may entail soaking the area for a extended period of time. Paring the area of concern followed by application of a strong percentage of acid (usually Salicylic). Then you are instructed to return in a few weeks. At check-out you are usually given pads that contain medication to use nightly or as directed by your physician.

Examining the callus treatment offered at the nail salon. Let’s assume that you salon technician is using a bottle with a label. Read it. It should mention Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid or Glycolic Acid. It might even contain a combination of all three acids. The next item you should take a look at is the percentage of active ingredients (ingredients that do work on the skin). This information is for your personal knowledge. You might find you respond better to a higher acid or a blended acid. Now that your armed with information you’ll understand that the callus treatment offered at the salon is a great jumping off point. However, you must maintain your home care or in office care as well. You might go to a nail technician that likes to use the razor blade. This CAN be dangerous, unsanitary and possibly illegal. If you allow your nail technician to preform this service on y0u, make sure you are getting a clean-unused blade. I had this done in a nail salon once and sweated from nervousness  the entire time. I had sensitivity walking for 2 days. So, proceed with caution.

Depending on the severity of the corn or callus would probably determine the treatment course. Some patients start with the home care versions and if necessary graduate to the in office form of treatment. Either way works as long as you are treating the corn or callus.

By: Angela L. Robles

There are several causes of dry skin. The cause could be medical, cosmetic or lack of education. Whatever the cause is there are some things that can be done to help ease the discomfort associated with dry skin. As you read along one or more of the dry skin   triggers featured might pop out at you. This blog is meant to provide awareness, it is in no way intended to diagnose a medical condition.

The symptoms of dry skin are fairly easy to spot. The skin might appear red or irritated in certain patches. Itching is associated with dry skin as well. As you run your fingers over your skin you might notice rough patches, this too could signify that you have dry skin. Although the visible symptoms are fairly easy to recognize, the cause might be harder to determine.

Living in the San Fernando valley we all suffer from the first dry skin trigger, dry air. Weather your air is dry because it is 100 degrees outside or it’s 60 degrees outside and you are sleeping with your heater on, your air is dry. You can sleep with a humidifier on to moisten your air, this works sometimes.

The next dry skin trigger would be the misuse of moisturizer. This sounds fairly simple to fix and it is. If this is your trigger then you should use a bath oil or body moisturizer before you towel off after your bath or shower. This will help to lock in some moisture left behind from your shower. As your skin begins to dry up or out post shower apply another layer of moisturizer. I always give the gas tank analogy. You cannot make it far on 1/4 tank of gas, however if your tank is full you can go far. The same applies to moisturizer, if you apply moisture once a day you are operating on a 1/4 tank of gas. Re-apply moisturizer until your body rejects it. Rejection will be the lack of absorption of moisture into the skin.Then you will have a full tank of gas or moisturizer.

Although those long showers and baths are great to relieve stress, they are not ideal for people who suffer from dry skin. It is necessary to limit long hot showers and baths to once a week, not daily.

While your in the warm shower reject the urge to grab a bar of soap. Bar soap was once a liquid, a bunch of fatty & drying ingredients were added to the liquid to bind it together and make a bar soap. Try to use a liquid, detergent free body wash. Chose a wash that highlights hydration, gentle and hypo-allergic.

One of my favorite past times is watching people try to hydrate dead skin cells. What do I mean? I’ll explain. Each skin cell has a life and a death. When it is alive it is plump and healthy, when it is dead is is dull and obsolete. I encourage nourishing healthy skin cells and exfoliating dead skin cells. Once a month use the Yu-Be Foaming Skin polish, it will gently aid in removing those pesky dead skin cells. Revealing healthy, glowing skin. If you try to hydrate a dead skin cell, your moisturizer will evaporate and you’ll be dry again. Again, one of my favorite past times to watch. In short,  exfoliate weekly or monthly and moisturize often.

Here is where it gets tricky. The next two causes are harder to remedy. The first of the two being medications. If the medication you are taking is for a short period of time, your in luck. If it is a medication that you must take forever or for a extended period of time, then you might want to try to “fill your tank”. I have found that the Yu-Be body moisturizer fills your tank the quickest.

The last of the obvious dry skin triggers is medical conditions. Here is where I don’t want you to play doctor. Just absorb the information. Below is a list of medical conditions where the patients often complain of dry skin.

They are:

Hyperthyroidism

Hypothyroidism

Diabetes

Sjogren’s syndrome

Malnutrition

Allergies

If you suffer from one of the above medical conditions, you know that your dry skin is chronic. I’m always amazed at the dedication and devotion to find the perfect moisturizer despite the fact that the condition is medically driven. In this case moisturize as often as possible and just know, it’s not you or what your doing. It just is part of the condition.

Remember to exfoliate, moisturize and avoid dry skin triggers whenever possible. Visit www.DrLinDirect.com for help with your moisturizing, exfoliating and anti-aging needs.

By: Angela L. Robles

What is acne and how can I look younger are the two most common questions that I’m asked in Dermatology. I find that clients are savvy, they know what products to use, which ingredients to avoid and what works well for them. Some clients even know which percentage of active ingredients they use nightly. However they have no idea what acne is, how it happens, who it happens to or why it happens. Knowing and understanding acne are beneficial tidbits of information necessary to treat acne.

If you suffer from acne this means you are first and foremost genetically blessed. Someone from your family passed the p acnes bacteria down to you. The p acnes bacteria is the ultimate culprit responsible for your acne. The p acnes bacteria usually begins causing break-outs one to three years before puberty hits. Please note, I said usually. There are plenty of adults that never broke out and suddenly experience acne.

The same people that have the p acnes bacteria also have the genetic tendency to be oilier and turn over dead skin cells quicker. This relevant because bacteria likes damp and dark places. In fact, bacteria thrives in damp, dark places. When the oil flows excessively, it’s sticky on the surface of the skin. Then a dead skin cell tries to slough off, but it gets stuck in the oil. Now, the pore is covered with a dead skin cell and the oil is holding it there. The pore continues to fill with oil. Eventually the pore is so full the tip is exposed to the air and oxidizes or turns black. A black head is born. The p acnes bacteria decide to have what I call a pimple party and try to infect the pore. This could result in a inflamed black head (red, swollen with a black center), pustule (white head) or a cyst (painful bump under the skin).

If you have acne prone skin all of the skin care products that you use should do one of three things:

1. Kill bacteria

2. Exfoliate the skin

3. Slow the oil flow

Within those three categories there are several hundred products that will promise the moon, the stars and clear skin. I always recommend that clients use products that are tried and true. Meaning the ingredients have been medically proven to work on acne.   It is also important to give your products a fair shot to work. I’m always amazed at how quickly people abandon their skin routine. Allow your lotions, potions, topical medications, pills and birth control pills  THREE MONTHS to work. After using them religiously according to the directions on the box you should  see improvement in your skin. If you have not seen realistic improvement in your skin, then you have the green flag to switch up your skin care products.

Most clients start with acne clearing kits and lotions sold over the counter. After that they are ready to consult a physician for additional help in clearing up their skin. A physician will review their home care routine, and possibly add topical prescription creams to their daily routine. In addition, some physicians will prescribe antibiotics that are taken orally. The combination of a skin clearing kit like ACT + topical prescription cream + antibiotics USUALLY = clear skin.

Professional chemical peels and extractions are also beneficial for treatment of acne. If the black head is successfully extracted before it has a chance to become infected or inflamed a pimple has been prevented. Best results are seen if you have a peel and extractions every two to four weeks, depending on severity.

There is a small percentage of people who need to take the next step. If you are getting acne scars, your skin is never completely clear and you are getting cysts you might be a candidate for the next step. The next step is the closest thing to a cure; accutane. This medication has gotten a bad wrap in the media, however under close supervision and education accutane  is a valuable tool used to successfully treat acne.

In short, oil, dead skin cells and bacteria are the culprits responsible for acne. Treatments vary depending on the severity of the acne. Start with a ACT skin kit and work your way up. Be sure to allow your treatment course a fair amount of time to work, like 3 months. There is no cure for acne. However, with the tools you now posses you might be able to control your break outs.

By: Angela L. Robles

Hydration is important and essential as the weather turns cold, the snow falls and the wind picks up.  Dry skin, split cuticles and cracked heels are not only unattractive but sometimes painful. If your like me, you have smudged everything for humans and even horses onto your skin in hopes of softening rough spots.  You have probably been talked into a callus treatment during your pedicure. As you watch in amazement and disgust while all this dead skin falls to the floor. Then in three days or so, you heels look the same.  What I have learned throughout the years is that there are some staple ingredients for hydration and moisturizing. A brilliant pharmacist in 1957 from Japan knew this to be true as well.

Glycerine- Is  a natural humectant that attracts and retains moisture in the skin.

Camphor- Has a medicinal smell that dissipates as soon as it dries. Camphor helps soothe irritation while leaving the skin feeling healthy.

Vitamin B2-Helps to sooth rough or damaged skin, it is yellow in color.

Vitamin C- This vitamin is famous for its anti-oxidant purposes. Vitamin C also helps improve elasticity and protect the skin against free radicals.

Vitamin E- Commonly used for scarring. Vitamin E is also a anti-oxidant and helps promote healing. Vitamin is believed to do this because it has a large molecular structure, therefore sits on top of the skin. Vitamin E in its natural state cannot penetrate into the skin. It is occlusive, like plastic wrap, making it perfect for locking in hydration to the skin.

Sodium Hyaluronate- Is also a humectant that holds moisture to the skin thereby softening and moisturizing rough skin. Sodium Hyaluronate is also used to soften the appearance of wrinkles.

I know what your thinking, what now? Going back to the pharmacist from Japan, the guy who knew in 1957 these ingredients would make a great treatment cream. Although, I think those two words are over used, ‘treatment cream”. In this in this case I think they are appropriately used. Yoshikiyo Nowatari, the pharmacist developed Yu-Be. Yu-Be is a simple line with a low price point, it simply works.

Yu-Be absorbs instantly and works to hydrate the skin for hours. It is great for all types of skin. Yu-Be helps to treat, soothe and prevent painful split cuticles and chapped lips. Yu-Be softens and reduces tough calluses on hands and feet including hard and cracked heels. During the cold months, it helps protect against dry skin and in warmer months Yu-Be helps soothe sun burned skin (a dermatology no-no) while replenishing necessary hydration. Although, Yu-Be is not a medication, many patients have seen improvement with Eczema, Dermatitis and Inflammation. One of my co-workers even uses it for her Psoriasis. She says it helps prevent the bad days.

I personally used the Yu-Be Moisturizing Skin Cream and all I have to say is THREE DAYS! My crunchy, not so cute elbows were a hot mess! Yes, I admit it. I’m a Esthetician (skin specialist) and I had dry skin issues. I tried it all, the horse cream, the cheap cream and of course the expensive cream. I tried what my mail carrier recommended; he claimed it prevented the cracks on his fingers. I used what my 88-year-old grandmother recommended, it involved rubbing food on my elbows. Then the clouds parted and the sky turned from gray to blue. It was the third day, I had been using Yu-Be Moisturizing Skin Cream and the Yu-Be heel and elbow socks for three days and my elbows were suddenly soft. My offensive elbows no longer snagged my sweater or my sheets. It seems so trivial but it made me so happy. My dry, cracked skin was a thing of the past.I immediately began to think of other areas I could moisturize. My feet are next! Since then, I have been selling a ton of Yu-Be to my clients. They love the results and the price.

A client of mine, Marlena thinks that every woman should use it after washing dishes on their hands. Gina, another client uses it on her 8-year-old son that has Eczema. She calls ahead to make sure we have enough in stock. Linda enjoys the Yu-Be skin foaming polish, she likes to scrub her husbands back while in the shower.

I used the Yu-Be Moisturizing Skin Cream  1.25oz. tube  that retails for $16.00 plus the Yu-Be heel and elbow socks that retail for $13.00. The Yu-Be Moisturizing Skin Cream tube and Yu-Be heel and elbow socks are available at www.DrLinDirect.com. Orders are processed within one business day and all of the products are stored in a climate controlled warehouse. This is important to maintain the integrity of the product, this ensures that the product does what it is intended to do.

by: Angela L. Robles

Reuters (7/7, Kelland) reports that, according to a study published in Science Translational Medicine, researchers have found a molecule in the body, CXCL5, which controls sensitivity to pain from UVB irradiation. The molecule may help them develop new treatments to treat pain in other conditions, according to the researchers.

The USA TODAY(7/6, Lebowitz) “Science Fair” blog reported CXCL5 “recruits immune cells to human flesh exposed to ultraviolet-B (UVB) rays, swelling the skin and triggering pain and tenderness.” The researchers “exposed numerous samples of human and rat skin to different types of solar waves.” After looking at the skin samples under a microscope, the researchers “observed a variety of proteins in the damaged tissue, including large quantities of CXCL5. Such abundance of the protein is what causes the skin tissue to redden and blister when in the presence the sun’s harmful rays.”

It is interesting that something positive may arise from UVB rays. There are Three types of UV rays, UVA, UVB & UVC. I find that there is a lot of confusion when it comes to the difference between the rays.

UVA rays are the least favorable ray when it comes to women. UVA rays are the Ultra Violet Aging or the aging ray. This ray does exactly what it promises, it ages you. This is one of the scariest rays because you cannot feel it happening. Instead, you enjoy the warmth of the sun on your skin and smile because it feels good. Unaware of the damage it is actually causing. The UVA ray is also the ray they use in tanning beds. That is how they guarantee that the bed will not burn you, because it is aging you.

Chemical peels and/or  PDT (photo dynamic therapy) with IPL (Intense Pulse Light) + Blue Light is the most common treatments for damage that the sun is responsible for.

UVB rays or Ultra Violet Burn rays are responsible for burning the skin. This ray is the easiest to detect because you can feel it. When you are in the sun and you think that it is getting too warm and you should seek shade or re-apply sunscreen, that is the UVB rays hard at work.

Sun Screen is the easiest solution for protection against UVB rays. In dermatology we prefer physical blocks that contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide with a SPF of 30. A lot of people tend to shy away from physical blocks because it can leave a white hue on the skin. The hue usually dissipates after a few minutes. The best way to think of a physical sun screen is to envision a mirror that is reflecting the sun ray (UVA, UVB or UVC) AWAY from your face.

UVC rays are quite possibly the most controversial ray. The UVC ray is the Ultra Violet Cancer ray. You guessed it! It is the cancer causing ray. The UVC ray is controversial because the ozone layer is meant to protect us from the UVC rays. However, as you know the ozone layer has been compromised. There are thoughts that only Australia is in danger because they are under the hole in the ozone layer. Then there are those who think the ray can travel in other directions. To make life less confusing, sun screens made in the USA do not provide UVC protection yet.

The best protection against UVC rays would be education.  Get a body check once a year. If you have never had a body check, please get one. Practice safe sun. Wear a physical sun screen with SPF 30, do not sun bathe, re-apply SPF every hour and wear waterproof SPF when you are going to sweat or swim.  Know what the ABC’s of skin cancer.

The ABC’s of skin cancer are simple:

A-asymmetry. If you were to fold the mole in half, it should be even or identical to the other half.

B-border. The border should not be irregular, jagged or uneven.

C-color. The color of the mole should be consistent, there should not be darker or lighter areas on or around the mole.

D-diameter. The diameter (size) of the mole should nor exceed a eraser tip, that you would find on top of a pencil.

E-elevation. The mole should be flat.

If your mole has ONE of the ABC’s see your doctor to have it checked.

It is necessary to protect yourself and your family from all UV rays. It is beneficial to have a basic understanding of moles and a doctor that can check you on a regular basis.

Dr. Michael Lin specializes in MOHS (surgery to remove melanoma), General Dermatology, Acne, Acne scar revision and cosmetic fillers and injectables.  Dr. Lin is the founder of www.DrLinDirect.com where you can find skincare for all skin types.

By: Angela L. Robles

Can I get rid of a scar?

Try to prolong the healing time by following the steps above. If you get a scar you can use make-up to cover it, have surgery to revise it, have injections to flatten it or use a silicon treatment to improve it. BioCorneum Gel is a great way to make your scar look softer and flatter. Apply a small amount twice daily. If your not satisfied after 3 months consider one of the alternate suggestions.  BioCorneum is available at: www.DrLinDirect.com

What is a scar?

By definition, a scar is the permanent mark left after any type of trauma to the skin: burns, cuts, scrapes, medical procedures or accidents.

How do scars form?

A part of the body’s natural healing process. When there’s an open wound, the body responds by sending collagen to the site; these fibers help bridge that gap in the skin. While the skin underneath heals, a scab forms. If the wound leads to a scar, you’ll notice when the scab falls off. The skin underneath will look different from surrounding skin – it might be lighter or darker, more red or irritated, or have a shiny look to it.

How can I prevent scars from happening in the first place?

The best way to prevent scars is to take good care of the wound. Be sure to wash it well with soap and warm water. Make sure the wound is covered, to shield it from bacteria. The last thing you want is infection! Last, the hardest to do, yet quite possibly the most important; don’t pick it. You will expose skin that is not ready to be exposed or healed. The body will do a better job repairing itself if it has time.

Is there more than one type of scar?

There are several types of scars. Keloid or hypertropic scars. Typically looks like it is raised and often larger than the site of the original injury. Hypertropic scars appear very similar to keloid scars, but don’t extend beyond the original injury. Contracture scars. Occurring after a  burn. The skin may be tighter making it harder to move. Sunken or pitted. When fat or muscle tissue is lost, they are pitted. Stretched skin. When skin stretches rapidly, this is every woman’s dreaded scar, the stretch mark. Acne marks.  redness and discoloration can linger long after an acne lesion. It can take several months for the spot to resolve. Products like the ACT (Acne Clearing Treatment) Kit can help speed the healing process. The ACT kit is available at: www.DrLinDirect.com

Stem cells have recently become a huge buzzword in the skincare world. But what does this really mean? Skincare specialists are not using embryonic stem cells; it is impossible to incorporate live materials into a skincare product. Many companies are using 2% Swiss Apple Malus Domestica (a liposomal preparation based on the stem cells of a rare Swiss apple). They have found that these apples help the skin cells act younger and exist longer.  This innovative skin serum protects longevity and combats chronological aging while delaying aging of skin cells.

There is controversy surrounding the use of stem cells, as some experts say that any product that claims to affect the growth of stem cells or the replication process is potentially dangerous, as it may lead to out-of-control replication or mutation. Weather you agree or disagree it’s fascinating to think that an apple can cause all this excitement.

One of the tried and true anti-aging creams is vitamin A. Using retinols or Retin-A along with sunscreen is the ideal anti-aging combination. However, there is something to be said for technology.

I used the human growth factor and saw that my acne scars appeared softer. These products and others are available at:www.DrLinDirect.com . If I’m honest, I look forward to trying the stem cell serum.

Dr. Michael Lin specializes in laser and cosmetic surgery, as well as Botox and other injectables. For a complimentary consultation, please call us at 661-288-2331 or visit www.linagedermatology.com

There are generic prescription drugs that work as well as the brand name prescriptions. However there are several prescriptions that I specify “no substitutions” because the brand works best. The agreement would allow more patients to be treated, which is the ultimate goal. In this case, your doctor knows best!

I always recommend that consumers have a skin consultant, someone they can ask questions about their skin routine. I   like to make suggestions to my patients according to their skin needs, weather lotions, potions, filler, laser or surgery. Knowing that they have someone on their team is beneficial for the budget. This way they are not tempted to purchase something they saw on a commercial or in a department store that may or may not work.